What caravan checklists can you print and keep in the van?
Three A4 checklists to print and keep in the van: what to do before you leave, how to check your weights at a public weighbridge, and what to do if the van starts to sway.
Caravan checklists you can print and keep in the van
Three practical checklists: what to do before you leave, how to check your weights at a public weighbridge, and what to do if the van starts to sway.
Read them here, or print all three for the glovebox.
Load and walkaround
- Tow ball mass in the healthy band: usually 8-12% of the van's loaded weight, and under your towbar and coupling ratings (often 350kg). European vans run lower by design.
- Heavy items stored low and over the axles. Nothing heavy at the back.
- Wheel nuts torqued to your hub and wheel maker's spec. It varies too much to guess: roughly 70 Nm on small studs up to 245 Nm on the big M14 hubs.
- Tyre pressures checked on car and van, adjusted for the load.
Hitching up
- Coupling seated on the tow ball. Locking mechanism engaged. Padlock or pin in.
- Safety chains crossed under the tow ball to form a cradle. D-shackles tight.
- 12-pin plug and Anderson plug connected. No cables dragging.
- Breakaway cable clipped straight to the tow vehicle (not the chain loop).
- Jockey wheel wound up and stowed. Caravan handbrake off.
Quick brake test before you roll
- Towing mirrors fitted if the van is wider than the car. You need a clear view of the road behind (Road Rule 297).
- Pull forward at 15-20 km/h on a flat, clear surface.
- Use the manual override slider on the electric brake controller. Keep your foot off the brake.
- You should feel firm, obvious braking from the van. That means the trailer brakes are working - no need to force a full stop.
Checklist 01
Before you leave: load, hitch, and brake test
Load and walkaround
- Tow ball mass in the healthy band: usually 8-12% of the van’s loaded weight, and under your towbar and coupling ratings (often 350kg).
- Heavy items stored low and over the axles. Nothing heavy at the back (pendulum effect).
- Wheel nuts torqued to your hub and wheel maker’s spec. It varies too much to guess: roughly 70 Nm on small studs up to 245 Nm on big M14 hubs.
- Tyre pressures checked on car and van, adjusted for the load.
- Internal hatches locked, fridge latched (12V on), TV antenna down, windows secured.
Hitching up
- Coupling seated on the tow ball. Locking mechanism engaged. Padlock or pin in.
- Safety chains crossed under the tow ball to form a cradle. D-shackles tight.
- 12-pin plug and Anderson plug connected. No cables dragging.
- Breakaway cable clipped straight to the tow vehicle (not the chain loop).
- Jockey wheel wound up and stowed. Weight distribution hitch engaged if you use one.
- Caravan handbrake off.
Brake test before you roll
- Towing mirrors fitted if the van is wider than the car. You need a clear view of the road behind (Road Rule 297).
- A co-pilot checks all trailer lights: indicators, brakes, tail lights.
- Pull forward at 15-20 km/h on a flat, clear surface.
- Use the manual override slider on the electric brake controller. Keep your foot off the brake.
- You should feel firm, obvious braking from the van. That means the trailer brakes are working - no need to force a full stop.
Checklist 02
Weighbridge check: the three-weigh method
Load the rig the way you actually travel: full water, full fuel, all your gear, passengers in the car. Otherwise the reading is meaningless.
Weigh 1: gross combination mass (GCM)
- Do: Drive the whole rig onto the weighbridge. All axles on the plate.
- Records: Your actual loaded GCM.
- Check: Must be less than the car's rated GCM.
Weigh 2: gross vehicle mass (GVM)
- Do: Pull forward so only the tow vehicle's axles are on the plate. Van axles off, still hitched.
- Records: Your actual loaded GVM (car plus tow ball mass).
- Check: Must be less than the car's rated GVM.
Weigh 3: aggregate trailer mass (ATM)
- Do: Unhitch the van on the plate. Drive the car right off. Van resting on the jockey wheel and axles.
- Records: Your actual loaded ATM.
- Check: Must be less than the ATM stamped on the caravan's compliance plate.
Came in over the limit?
If the car's GVM or GCM is over the rating, stripping accessories won't fix it. You need a heavier tow vehicle.
Scan to explore finance options for a bigger tow vehicle with Jade Finance.
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Checklist 03
If a sway or blowout starts
Read this first
If the van starts to sway hard, do not hit the foot brake.
Braking the car during a sway makes the pendulum worse and can jackknife the rig.
Getting it back under control
- Lift off the accelerator. Keep the steering wheel dead straight.
- Do not swerve to counter the sway. Hold the wheel firm.
- Gently apply the manual override slider on your electric brake controller.
- Braking only the trailer drags the van in line behind the car and straightens the rig out.
- Once you’re straight and speed has bled off, you can gently use the foot brake.
Once you're stopped
- Indicate left and pull the whole rig off the highway (onto the shoulder or dirt if you have to).
- Hazard lights on straight away.
- Everyone out on the passenger side, away from traffic.
- Move well behind a barrier or away from the road verge.
- If you carry a reflective triangle or vest, use it - place the triangle well behind the van with a clear sightline. Not a legal requirement for a car-and-caravan rig, but a sensible one.